People were excited at Burberry yesterday morning. The show, which had been postponed after the death of the Queen, was finally taking place. But no one was more ecstatic than Riccardo Tisci’s bestie Kanye West, who made a surprise front row appearance in sparkling diamond flip flops worn with socks. (Last season Tisci convinced Gigi Hadid to dye her hair blonde for the show; there is clearly no fashion extreme to which Tisci’s celebrity friends won’t go for him).
But some Burberry fans certainly felt differently and expressed it all on Instagram, where the brand released a series of short films shot on the British seaside; featuring goths in full faces of heavy eyeliner makeup like the band Kiss made famous, with tall black mohawks that swayed in the ocean’s breeze, being interview on their thoughts about…bikinis. Some commenters threatened to unfollow because it didn’t look like the Burberry of their youth, others offered to cleanse their souls. But don’t they realize the goth kid of fashion has been at the helm of the brand since 2018?
Riccardo Tisci has been called a goth ever since 2005, when he arrived as the creative director of Givenchy’s womenswear and haute couture (he later added menswear in 2008, launching the age of fanatical menswear we find ourselves in now). He famously brought haute streetwear, complete with crosses and skulls, to the fashion house behind Audrey Hepburn’s famous little black dress from Breakfast At Tiffany’s. (Remember those angry Rottweiler t-shirts from 2011?). People wondered if he would do the same for Burberry—his move to the heritage British brand known for check panel trench coats in 2018 was ushered in with twitter jokes about a “goth Burberry.” (The phrase “goth trenches” even trended briefly amongst the high-fashion community on the app.) What he has done instead is create crazy trench gowns we’re still waiting to see appear on the red carpet.
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His Spring 2023 collection feels like the closest he’s come to delivering that goth vision that fashion fanatics fantasized about. And it appeared on some of the most famous names in modeling, at that: Bella Hadid, Naomi Campbell, Erin O’Connor, Irina Shayk, Mariacarla Boscono, and Karen Elson all walked the show.
Exclusive: Mariacarla Boscono backstage at the Burberry Spring 2023 show.
This season, Tisci was inspired by goths at the ocean, like the ones walking side by side down the beach boardwalk in matching spiked chokers, discussing childhood memories by the sea, in the brand’s teaser film. In a press release, the designer said, “I was inspired by the liberation and openness of youth, of people embracing their bodies and revealing them—a pride in themselves, who they are, their identities.” He sees the British seaside as an interesting community, where some people are in bikinis and others are dressed for the unlucky but probable potential of rain. Goths maybe don’t take off their strappy platform boots to walk on the sand. The beach, particularly outside of London is a “place where humanity meets, a point where different worlds collide,” he believes. Part of the fun of Tisci’s Burberry has been watching the Italian designer interpret the rich punk subculture of Britain as a genuine admirer from another part of the world.
The seaside, Tisci mused, is “a crux of society, a crucible of humanity.” The beach, the body, the Burberry! The collection felt particularly sensual, with Tisci exploring the duality of swimwear and outerwear, getting dressed and getting undressed. Stylist Lotta Volkova, who has worked with Vetements, Demna’s Balenciaga, and most recently Miu Miu, started working with Burberry for its Fall 2022 campaign. This is her first time styling a Burberry show, and as she references the alt-punk and fetishism of post-Soviet street culture often in her work, the off-putting but still sexy styling, with crotch cut-out dresses under leather moto jackets, felt weirdly right.
Exclusive: Naomi Campbell backstage at the Burberry Spring 2023 show.
The evening looks at the show’s end were especially apres-swim-witchy. Gowns looked like satin one-piece swimsuits with lacey cup details and long cascading trains, crinkled like something that ends up at the bottom of your beach bag because you want to wear it out after a swim. (Or during the off-season, after a one-night stand. Clothing you love so much you actually wear it—a concept!—is an emerging theme this fashion month; intentional wrinkling was also seen most notably at Prada.)
Exclusive: Bella Hadid backstage at the Burberry 2023 show.
Every model wore flip flops, some puffed up like inflatable toys and others heeled with thick straps like the ones attached to keep your surfboard from floating away. (Another Ye-Tisci trend begins!) Crystal embellished bags inspired by flotation devices were strapped to the arms of a model wearing the kind of thing you throw on when you’re hoping for sun but worried about the clouds: a diamanté string bikini worn with billowing wide-leg jeans and a jacket tied at the waist.
No Burberry show is complete without trench coats, of course: with cut-outs and no sleeves, these were perfect for weird tan lines. Tisci also strung together crystal embellished swimming goggles like cabochon jewels, and brought back his shark teeth jewelry from Givenchy as rings.
And while Tisci wrote in his show notes that “I wanted to express that spirit of togetherness and joy, that reality,” attendees claim the mood was rather somber, with the ominous notes of the London Contemporary Orchestra echoing throughout the warehouse. The death of the Queen and the rain in London hung over the room, as perhaps did rumors that Tisci’s time at the brand may be winding down. Smack in the middle of fashion month, the show’s timing meant a trip to the beach was realistically nowhere in sight for anyone in the audience. But maybe that British gloom is just what Tisci does best.
Tara Gonzalez is the Senior Fashion Editor at Harper’s Bazaar. Previously, she was the style writer at InStyle, founding commerce editor at Glamour, and fashion editor at Coveteur.
Riccardo Tisci Delivered the Goth Burberry Show Everyone’s Been Waiting For
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