Every brand wants to come out of gate strong, but few get a start like Saks Potts. The Copenhagen-based womenswear brand, which launched in 2014, became an instant cult favorite thanks to its poppy, fur-trimmed outerwear. But when you have such a hallmark design, how do you keep from becoming a one-hit wonder? Founders Barbara Potts and Cathrine Saks found a way with Saks Potts’ Spring 2023 collection, which showed during Copenhagen Fashion Week in the sunny city square at mid-day.
The collection, which was one of its strongest since the rebrand in 2021, included a mix of easy, tailored separates (an ombre-effect leather skirt in shades of amber, a collared wrap-around halter top paired with hyperbolically baggy jeans, a leather skirt suit with asymmetric grommets) as well as pieces that feel like an upgrade of basics you might already have in your closet—like the peanut-colored cargo pants that were paired with a gold lame top.
James Cochrane
James Cochrane
“The collection is particularly inspired by Crown-princess Mary’s arrival in Denmark in the early 2000s, when she—before the transition to becoming a princess—lived an almost normal life walking the streets of Copenhagen and working an ordinary 9-5 job at Microsoft,” Potts tells Harper’s Bazaar.
The pair was inspired particularly by Mary’s journey from plebeian to royalty. “An old picture of a young princess walking the streets of Copenhagen dressed in a simple black cotton top, light and breathy white cotton pants, and a see-through silk skirt around the waist, paired with a big pair of sunglasses, perfectly captures how we remember a young Mary when she came to Copenhagen. Where ever she went, she always looked elegant, authentic, and unconventional at the same time, which is something Saks Potts always strives to be.”
James Cochrane
James Cochrane
The collection feels less like a series of attempts to pin down what women want and more like a complete point of view, with little regard for making it big on TikTok. It’s narrative-driven and filled with truly wearable pieces for the woman who already understands her own personal style. (It’s no coincidence that the brand hired its first CEO, Josefine Laigaard, who previously helped Ganni expand as its head of business development, earlier this year.)
James Cochrane
James Cochrane
The designers say they have no desire to try and recreate the hype of the Foxy Coat by designing styles they forecast to be runaway hits. Instead, they’d rather every woman who wears a Saks Potts look feels comfortable. “It’s impossible to plan if a style will become cult. It’s our always dream that they will, but we’re mostly focused on designing clothes we want to wear ourselves and can see our community wearing,” Saks says.
Now that’s a clear path forward.
“The thing you should always expect from us is the unexpected,” she adds. “We love surprising our audience by creating fun and exciting shows and collections made from different themes. This we will continue to do—while, of course, also striving to get bigger and stronger.”
Saks Potts Isn’t Looking for a TikTok Moment
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